I use Mouser occasionally too, and they should also have everything you need. I usually use Digikey and I’m sure they will have everything you need. You probably won’t have any trouble finding any of the three to order, they’re all normal silicon parts (it’s the old germanium and point contact transistors that are hard to find now, but your stuff is too new for that). The small ones are a 2N3903 and a 2N6427 I can’t quite make out the marks on the large one, but it will be 2Nxxxx where those x’es are four numbers to make up a full part number. The transistors that are small are TO92 packages. I’d read the values off the parts on the board and order those. Note that the schematic does not appear to match the board you show in those pics. Just get one with the same capacitance rating and at least 100v voltage rating. I don’t see it in the pics but it’s on the schematic. The new one might be a different color but don’t worry about it.Ĭ2 is probably ceramic disc cap. You can probably get one with the same physical size for a nice replacement. If you get a higher temp rating it will last longer. Axial leader caps are much less common than they once were, but they’re still available. The big capacitor is a 1000 microfarad (uF), 16v polarized electrolytic cap with axial leads. Glass body diodes are still readily available. You could probably use a 1N4007 here too without any problem, but if you’re ordering all new parts, best to try to get an exact replacement. Those are 1A diodes too, and nothing fancy. The number should be printed on it around the perimeter. The glass body diode (CR2) might be a 1N4148 or 1N918. You’d probably be fine with a lower voltage diode, but they all cost about the same in that series so you’re safer with the higher rating. I’d use 1N4007 diodes for the black diode (CR1), but it’s not super critical. It might be overkill though, it depends on the application, but I doubt the welder is an easy service for the parts. The OY resistors are pretty indestructible. I’d use a metal/ceramic composition here just to be safe, such as the ohmmite OY series (green body). The new board shows one big blue bodied resistor, that’s probably metal oxide. Their values are on your schematic, you read them left-to-right from the color bands with the gold or silver band on the right end. may serve over time as a useful indicator of a governments financial position. The updated pics shows rounded off cylindrical tan body resistors, those will be carbon film. District funds, and investing idle funds as permitted by New Jersey law. Don’t use them in a rebuild, modern resistors are better. Those resistors tend to absorb moisture overtime and their value drifts away from what it should be. The original dark brown cylindrical body resistors are all carbon composition. It might just be an error on the drawing. It’s drawn backwards on the schematic though (usually the slanted line comes off the other end of the diode in an SCR symbol), I’m not sure why they did that. Q1 on the schematic is an SCR, not a transistor.
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